Alright I will be painting my LMI Hammer(Carbon Fiber) intake and stock throttle body to color match my Pitch Black RT... Any advice on which products to use would be great... Looked at several videos but still having a tough time to make a decision on the products I should use... Also I need to have this done by Saturday morning if at all possible... Is that enough time to dry? Any advice would help... Thanks fellas...
xRico
I'm not sure painting the throttle body is a good idea, but then, who knows if there'd be any detrimental effects. However, squirting your intake should pose no particular issues.
Start out by sanding the carbon fiber tubing with 600 grit wet/dry. I'd use wet/dry to keep down any dust from sanding the carbon fiber... something tells me inhaling it may have some serious downsides.
I'm assuming you will be using rattle cans.
I'm not sure if it would be necessary on C/F, but just to be safe, I shoot it with an adhesion promoter. Follow up with primer, then scuff that with a red 3M pad.
First, mask off the areas where the rubber connections slide over the tube. If you don't, they'll become "glued" to the tube and future removal will be a PITA... and you will, without a doubt, scrape the he-- out of the tube in the process of prying the connectors off.
Shoot several light to medium colour coats, following the manufacturers directions regarding re-coat times. I usually shoot a final, heavier coat.
Set the tube aside and don't touch it for at least 48 hours... really, the longer the better. Because spray paints don't contain hardeners, they remain "soft" for a LOT longer than paints shot out of a gun. I've had situations in which even after a week, the paint has still not fully cured. Shooting over uncured paint will create some fairly interesting effects... like wrinkling, or crackling being amongst the more entertaining outcomes.
Wait as long as you can, but finish up by colour sanding. Start with 800 grit wet/dry and work your way up to 1500, then 2000 grit if you can find it. I use a squirt bottle of water with a couple of drops of dishwashing detergent in it. It keeps helps keep the "dust" from clogging the paper as quickly and degreases the part while your at it.
Buff the part beginning with a very mild compound, I usually use Turtle Wax Scratch Remover to start out with. It's slower going than with rubbing compound, but there's a much reduced chance of burning through the paint, just be very careful along any edges when colour sanding and polishing. Final buff with a buffing compound, don't use anything containing a wax or silicone... these will seal the paint and prevent the thinners/reducers from evaporating out. Eventually, the finish will go "nasty" on you and no amount of polishing will make it look good.
As I said, this is how I shoot things with spray bombs.... shooting stuff with a gun changes everything as far as curing times. It might be overkill, but I've been able to achieve some pretty decent results. There's just no substitute for time, particularly when dealing with rattle can paints. You can't "force" the cure times, trying to use heat merely creates a "skin" of dry paint, sealing in the soft, uncured, gooey mess underneath... ask how I know about that!
Best of luck. I'm sure others can help out with their experiences.
Start out by sanding the carbon fiber tubing with 600 grit wet/dry. I'd use wet/dry to keep down any dust from sanding the carbon fiber... something tells me inhaling it may have some serious downsides.
I'm assuming you will be using rattle cans.
I'm not sure if it would be necessary on C/F, but just to be safe, I shoot it with an adhesion promoter. Follow up with primer, then scuff that with a red 3M pad.
First, mask off the areas where the rubber connections slide over the tube. If you don't, they'll become "glued" to the tube and future removal will be a PITA... and you will, without a doubt, scrape the he-- out of the tube in the process of prying the connectors off.
Shoot several light to medium colour coats, following the manufacturers directions regarding re-coat times. I usually shoot a final, heavier coat.
Set the tube aside and don't touch it for at least 48 hours... really, the longer the better. Because spray paints don't contain hardeners, they remain "soft" for a LOT longer than paints shot out of a gun. I've had situations in which even after a week, the paint has still not fully cured. Shooting over uncured paint will create some fairly interesting effects... like wrinkling, or crackling being amongst the more entertaining outcomes.
Wait as long as you can, but finish up by colour sanding. Start with 800 grit wet/dry and work your way up to 1500, then 2000 grit if you can find it. I use a squirt bottle of water with a couple of drops of dishwashing detergent in it. It keeps helps keep the "dust" from clogging the paper as quickly and degreases the part while your at it.
Buff the part beginning with a very mild compound, I usually use Turtle Wax Scratch Remover to start out with. It's slower going than with rubbing compound, but there's a much reduced chance of burning through the paint, just be very careful along any edges when colour sanding and polishing. Final buff with a buffing compound, don't use anything containing a wax or silicone... these will seal the paint and prevent the thinners/reducers from evaporating out. Eventually, the finish will go "nasty" on you and no amount of polishing will make it look good.
As I said, this is how I shoot things with spray bombs.... shooting stuff with a gun changes everything as far as curing times. It might be overkill, but I've been able to achieve some pretty decent results. There's just no substitute for time, particularly when dealing with rattle can paints. You can't "force" the cure times, trying to use heat merely creates a "skin" of dry paint, sealing in the soft, uncured, gooey mess underneath... ask how I know about that!
Best of luck. I'm sure others can help out with their experiences.
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